electric bike 600 watt image
sean s
is it possible to make a magnetic motor that will spin on it's own do to magnetism? if so, can you use a pulley on this motor to drive a generator? and if so, can you use the power of the generator to run a 800 hp electric motor that you would place in the engine compartment of your car if you take the original gas burning engine out?
Answer
Yes, all electric motors do that, yes you could use a pulley to run a generator, yes, you could put an 800 hp electric motor in a extremely large car.
The problem is looking at the overall system.
Lets work backward at the parts of the system you propose, an 800 hp motor will dissipate 750 watts per hp, or 800 X 750 your motor would dissipate 600,000 watts. Even at 100% efficiency, that is a lot of power consumed. Your car would need to be about the size of a semi to hold it, or a train engine.
600Kwatts is enough to run 18 homes.
A magnetic motor, would take some input to overcome losses due to resistance in the system. By virtue of touching it or removing energy from the system, even in the process of reading the system you have to remove energy from it you increase loss in the system. Say, you are on a bike heading down hill, and pulling a trailer with the breaks locked, assuming it is not vertical, or greater than 45 degrees, you will have to peddle the bike to make up for the loss the trailer adds to your system. the generator is the same, you take away energy, it must be added.
Long story short, you would need 720,000 watts into the magnetic motor for it to spin driving a generator to run and 800 hp electric motor. This is without taking into account, the losses in the generator.
All this assumes you have an 80% efficient system, which is outstanding for this type of system, in reality, short of some Star Trek answer the system losses would be in the range of about 55 to 72% efficiency for a very well engineered system, which means you will have to lose the belts, to much energy loss, and it would take to many belts.
Yes, all electric motors do that, yes you could use a pulley to run a generator, yes, you could put an 800 hp electric motor in a extremely large car.
The problem is looking at the overall system.
Lets work backward at the parts of the system you propose, an 800 hp motor will dissipate 750 watts per hp, or 800 X 750 your motor would dissipate 600,000 watts. Even at 100% efficiency, that is a lot of power consumed. Your car would need to be about the size of a semi to hold it, or a train engine.
600Kwatts is enough to run 18 homes.
A magnetic motor, would take some input to overcome losses due to resistance in the system. By virtue of touching it or removing energy from the system, even in the process of reading the system you have to remove energy from it you increase loss in the system. Say, you are on a bike heading down hill, and pulling a trailer with the breaks locked, assuming it is not vertical, or greater than 45 degrees, you will have to peddle the bike to make up for the loss the trailer adds to your system. the generator is the same, you take away energy, it must be added.
Long story short, you would need 720,000 watts into the magnetic motor for it to spin driving a generator to run and 800 hp electric motor. This is without taking into account, the losses in the generator.
All this assumes you have an 80% efficient system, which is outstanding for this type of system, in reality, short of some Star Trek answer the system losses would be in the range of about 55 to 72% efficiency for a very well engineered system, which means you will have to lose the belts, to much energy loss, and it would take to many belts.
how much does the average race bike usually cost?
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paul, if you really read the question, im asking about the average cost of RACE BIKES. is it really that hard to answer?
paul, if you really read the question, im asking about the average cost of RACE BIKES. is it really that hard to answer?
Answer
If you are looking for an average entry-level road bike, then I can offer a few comments on my road bike. If you really mean a racing bicycle for competition, then you are discussing $5,000 to $25,000 worth of gear which is out of my league.
If you are going to really ride any miles, you want a dedicated road bike. You should invest in a good quality, aluminum-frame road bike if you want efficient transportation on pavement. I found that switching from a hybrid comfort bike to a low-end road bike increased my commuting speed 30% over my sixteen-mile daily ride.
I found a Trek 1500 that weighs about 20 pounds with narrow tires. I travel downhill at 42 MPH, level at 25 MPH, with an uphill speed of about 8 MPH. Total terrain average is 12 MPH.
I shopped around year-old models at 20% discount, but found a Trek 1500 demo model at a 40% discount in a 60 cm frame size. I am 6'2" at 195 pounds, a perfect fit. With accessories, I spent $800 with a tire repair kit, pump, and lock.
Within the first 1,000 miles, I had five flat tires. I replaced the tires with a Schwalbe Marathon Plus on the rear and a Continental Gator on the front. I had no flat tires over the second 1,000 miles. The tires cost about $100.
I spent more than $100 on Night Rider 15 watt headlight and rechargeable battery pack. I bought a back-up Cat Eye lamp with four rechargeable AA batteries. I also bought red flashers for the seat post and helmet, with a duct tape loop on the helmet to hold the LED lamp. Since I ride in below-zero windchills, I paid $160 for Hotronic electric footbed heaters in leather shoes that cost $100. I also wear layers of fleece with North Face waterproof pants and Spyder backpack cover, figure another $200.
So, I spent about $1,600 on everything that I needed for 2,000 miles of riding in the past year. Spread over five years, bicycle commuting will cost me less than $0.15 per mile, which is cheaper than driving a car and provides great fitness.
If you are looking for an average entry-level road bike, then I can offer a few comments on my road bike. If you really mean a racing bicycle for competition, then you are discussing $5,000 to $25,000 worth of gear which is out of my league.
If you are going to really ride any miles, you want a dedicated road bike. You should invest in a good quality, aluminum-frame road bike if you want efficient transportation on pavement. I found that switching from a hybrid comfort bike to a low-end road bike increased my commuting speed 30% over my sixteen-mile daily ride.
I found a Trek 1500 that weighs about 20 pounds with narrow tires. I travel downhill at 42 MPH, level at 25 MPH, with an uphill speed of about 8 MPH. Total terrain average is 12 MPH.
I shopped around year-old models at 20% discount, but found a Trek 1500 demo model at a 40% discount in a 60 cm frame size. I am 6'2" at 195 pounds, a perfect fit. With accessories, I spent $800 with a tire repair kit, pump, and lock.
Within the first 1,000 miles, I had five flat tires. I replaced the tires with a Schwalbe Marathon Plus on the rear and a Continental Gator on the front. I had no flat tires over the second 1,000 miles. The tires cost about $100.
I spent more than $100 on Night Rider 15 watt headlight and rechargeable battery pack. I bought a back-up Cat Eye lamp with four rechargeable AA batteries. I also bought red flashers for the seat post and helmet, with a duct tape loop on the helmet to hold the LED lamp. Since I ride in below-zero windchills, I paid $160 for Hotronic electric footbed heaters in leather shoes that cost $100. I also wear layers of fleece with North Face waterproof pants and Spyder backpack cover, figure another $200.
So, I spent about $1,600 on everything that I needed for 2,000 miles of riding in the past year. Spread over five years, bicycle commuting will cost me less than $0.15 per mile, which is cheaper than driving a car and provides great fitness.
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